My time in Salvador is coming to an end. Just three more days to go, and I'll be off to São Paulo. Six weeks of impressions and experiences are now shaping themselves into what will be my future memories of the afro-brazilian capital of the country.

In my last account I might have given the wrong impression that Brazil can be described as a country with a lack of infrastructure and poor service. If so, there's certainly a thing or two for me to say in order to complete the picture. Because Brazil is neither easy to grasp, nor simple to describe. On the contrary, Brazil is one of the most complex societies I've yet encountered, and that goes for all aspects of life. 

You may not be able to use your credit card in places where you'd normally not consider other options (such as travel agencies) and, as such, will have to carry a ridiculous amount of cash on you. On the other hand side, when talking about spending money, Brazil has some extremely large and impressive shopping malls, making their Danish counterparts look hopelessly out of date. I've only been to Shopping Barra, which, according to Norma, is ridiculously small. To me, it's one the largest shopping mall I've yet encountered with an impressive food court and beautiful toilets (something I always look out for and appreciate...), and it took me quite a few trips not to end up totally confused and desoriented when trying to navigate through the various floors and corridors.

Another thing that has striken me as being very advanced here in Brazil is the medical service (well, at least in the private sector, I suppose). One of my friends from school had to have her appendix removed a few weeks ago, and as I came to see her at the hospital after the surgery, I ended up staying there for many hours translating between her and the doctors, since almost none of them spoke English. As such, I got a small insight into the Brazilian health system and the apparent advancement of the surgery in this country. Never seen a scar so small and aesthetically done as hers! Going to the hospital in a foreign country is always scary, but honestly, I wouldn't mind having my appendix removed here in Brazil after this experience (although, of course, hoping that it won't be necessary...!).

So basically: Coming from Denmark, you'll certainly run into a few situations that will leave you frustrated and swearing under your breath, while missing the ease of everyday life at home. On the other hand side, you'll be positively surprised to experience the advancement in certain sectors of this country. The most striking experience is, in fact, the constant change between two extremes - the advanced and the simple, the rich and the poor, the black and the white, or yet another combination.

One of the contrasts that I've mentioned before is the ever-present, and seemingly firmly rooted, difference between being black and being white. This difference is closely related to another: Being rich and being poor. This is sadly something that can be observed in various places on earth and, as such, not limited to Brazil, but being in Salvador with its rich African inheritance that's still influencing the present, it's a very apparent fact of life. I've been to an innumerable amount of receptions - "festas" - with Norma and the same picture repeats itself over and over: White people stuffing themselves with food and cocktails (in this context I feel slightly ashamed having been one of them), while the black waiters keep bringing in new trays. Going to the beach is another example: Even though you'll find people of all colours enjoying the beautiful beaches of Bahia, you'll never ever see a white person selling agua de coco (fresh green coconuts served with a straw to sip the coconut water inside), beach towels, snacks or the like. Six weeks is nowhere near enough for me to get used to, or accept, the social gap between me, the tourist, and the vendor of agua de coco, who, after a whole day on the beach, returns at sunset to the favela on the outskirts of Salvador, where she lives with her family, who depends on the money she makes on the beach every day. This woman could also be the maid cleaning your house or, if worse, the one begging one the corner with her children. Her husband could be the doorkeeper in the building, where you live, or the street vendor in Pelourinho (the centre of Salvador) selling cafezinho (short black coffee) to locals and tourists alike. This is the reality of being black and poor in Brazil, where slavery was banned in 1888, but where I, as an observer of the reality in front of me, can't help wonder once in a while, if slavery doesn't continue to exist today, though in disguise.

Could it be that the obvious inequality is not only a matter of financial resources but also a matter of moral support from society? Because where are the equal opportunities? And where is the motivation for black children living in poverty to advance the social hierarchy, when people of their physical appearance are constantly categorised as waiters, street vendors, cleaning ladies and doorkeepers? Where are the role models? If Salvador has 80% black people, then why do all the billboard advertisements display only white people?The fact that can be observed is, namely, that the image of society, as it expresses itself through advertisements, soap operas and in the world of politics, business and finance, is strikingly white, sometimes exclusively.

And, at the same time, the cultural life of Brazil - at least the Northeastern corner, where I am at the moment, is so heavily influenced by African traditions, religion, music and culinary culture. Capoeira, samba, the religion Candomblé are all derivatives of the country's African inheritance and constitute an important part of everyday life here in Salvador and its surroundings. Because of this cultural wealth and, not to mention, the natural beauty and lovely climate of this region, I can definitely recommend Salvador and Bahia to anybody who considers a trip to Brazil: This place is not only beautiful, but special in the sense that the historic past is so clearly visible in the present.

And my pictures: They're on their way, hopefully in a matter of hours, so keep an eye out... :-)

Speak to you in São Paulo!