28th June Leaving Tentena I went to the travel office where I had been dropped off. Got a lift from the gardner as I didnt want to have anything to do with Johnnie. The bus is not due till 3 from what I can gather but she does not want to give me a ticket either. I learn some Indonisian on the laptop then go for lunch to the lady who had given me some driniking water on my walk day.

On my return I check again at the shop about the bus and this lady says I should be at the terminal, bus is now due 10 minutes later. I catch a bijak there, remembereing when I get there that I have left my Lonely planet book and headphones at the travel office but cant risk missing the bus. I meet the only tourists for a week, a spanish couple coming south from the Togean islands. As it turns out the bus turns up an hour late and has come through town anyway and picks me up on the way to Poso.




In Poso I go straight to ALuguro guesthouse and check into a very basic, ant infested room. The receptionist in headscarf is less than helpful and the next morning hasnt not changed her attitude despite being out of her scarf when I ask her for some drinking water. Usually most places will fill your water bottle as the tap water is not fit to drink.

After checking in I visit the bank and then to the central market by the same bijak. there seems to be many goats running around feeding on the rubbish, the market is closing as it is around 6 p.m and getting dark. I grab something to eat across the road and the lights go out so we are eating initially in torch light (I had my own) and then in candle light. the man across from me is wearing a white Tshirt "Indonesian Police" and is being helpful  making all the condiment dishes available to me, while chumping on little green chillies. I have ordered Nasi-Goreng traditional fried rice comes with a fried egg on top. You smother the whole thing with this thick black sweet sauce and then mix in chilli sauce, I also squeeze some fresh lemons for some protection from illnesses.

The internet shop is powered by its own generator. In the morning I buy a ticket to Ampana which is the jumping off town to Togean Islands good for diving and snorkling. I was expecting a bus but it is a small minibus which goes around the town picking up passangers as we go. This includes a lady with a wheel chair who manages to stand her ground when the driver is trying to talk her out of taking her toilet seat along (wooden chair with a hole in the middle).


29th In Ampana I go to the Family guesthouse which turns out to be fully booked and there are lots of people on a training course for the civil servants in the foyer doing some exercise including singing and running around etc, despite some (the females!) are in head scarf.

I walk to the port to see if there may be a boat today for the Togean islands, there is not. I was told there is one 10 a.m. I catch a Ojak and we go guesthouse hunting eventually end up in Sudarhana. Little sleep at night though due to football and then the morning prayer starts at 4.15, Great. I even went to bed early 9 p.m. to make sure to get some rest.

I had had a long walk and had some fun chatting to various bike shops asking to buy a second hand motor bike. One man I end up naming Toju Juta (7 Million) because everytime I ask him how much a bike is he says 7 million). On my return to Sudarhana we just missed the rain. then I got into my shorts and went and stood in the rain, I love the rain here it cools you down. Then I noticed that two pipes were pouring the rain water onto the street from two roofs of the hotel. I got my shampoo and got washing, it was great probably cleaner than some waters I have used and continuous (usually have to pour water onto my head with a plastic container in a Mandi - bathroom, water is kept in a big tub or built enclosure).